Fourviã¨re, saint-just
Panoramic viewpoint
Next to the basilica is the panoramic viewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance. This is a very good point to start your visit of the city because you can really see its general layout.
Take the funicular up the hill from Vieux Lyon metro station, or if you are fit, walk up Montée des Chazeaux starts at the southern end of Rue du Boeuf, Montée St Barthélémy from St Paul station or Montée du Gourguillon from the northern end of Rue St Georges, behind Vieux Lyon metro station. This is a 150 m 500 ft vertical ascent approximately.
Fourvière was the original location of the Roman Lugdunum. In the 19th century, it became the religious centre of the city, with the basilica and the Archbishop's offices.
To go down from there, you can take Montée Cardinal Decourtray, then Rue Cléberg and Rue de l'Antiquaille which lead to the Roman theatres, or walk down through the Jardins du Rosaire, a nice garden; then stairways lead to Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon. Of course, you can also take the funicular.
Saint-Just neighbourhood, south-west of the Roman theatres, has less famous but also interesting historical sites.
Metal tower
Next to the basilica stands a smaller 86 m, 282 ft replica of the Eiffel Tower, completed in 1894. Its construction was supported by anticlerical people in order to have a non-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which it actually is with an altitude of 372 m 1272 ft at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public.
St Irénée church
The oldest church in Lyon, and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis which was in use for centuries, until the Middle Ages. Some sarcophagi from the 5th or 6th century are visible in the courtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. Early Christian remains from the 4th-6th centuries are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century remains. Behind the church, the calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint.
Museums and galleries
Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation
Located in the former Gestapo regional headquarters, this museum depicts the daily life in Lyon under the German occupation and keeps memories of this tragic period. Often holds exhibitions mostly photography.
Musée urbain Tony Garnier
This museum was created during the renovation of the Etats-Unis neighbourhood in the 1980s and 1990s, and the inhabitants were strongly involved in the project. The museum comprises a recreated apartment of the 1930s, which shows how life was like in these very modern housing units, and the 25 wall paintings depicting Garnier's work and ideals. You can also see the walls on your own but you will miss the interesting comments on the history of the area and the social project behind it.
Musée d'Art contemporain
Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular.
Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts
Musée des Arts Décoratifs / Musée des Tissus
Musées Gadagne: Historical museum of Lyon and International puppet museum
After 10 years of major refurbishment works, these museums dedicated to the history of the city and to puppets like the famous Guignol from Lyon were reopened in June 2009, with great public and critical success. The building itself, a magnificent Renaissance palace, is worth a visit. A nice garden and cafe have also been created at the top of the building free access.
Institut Lumière - Musée vivant du Cinéma
Located in the Lumière brothers' house, this museum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worth seeing for the lovely architecture.
Parks and gardens
Jardin des Curiosités
Small garden hidden in the bottom of a street/car park, behind a metallic door. It was designed by Canadian artists in a surrealistic spirit recalls Magritte or Dali. Also a very nice viewpoint over the southern part of Lyon.
Parc des Hauteurs
Located between the metal tower of Fourvière and the Loyasse cemetery, this is rather a promenade with a nice footbridge offering great views towards the Monts d'Or and Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventure course and a skiing and moutain bike slope.
Parc de la Tête d'Or
Completed in 1862, this 105-hectare English-style garden is one of the largest and arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for families as well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the botanical garden, the rose garden and the recently added "African plain" in which animals wander in a natural-style environment, perfect for children.
Parc de Gerland
The Rhône banks promenade ends here. This recent park does not have the majesty of Parc de la Tête d'Or but it is far less crowded and boasts some nice examples of modern landscaping. Still under development, it should cover 80 hectares when completed.
Rhône banks
The right bank of the river Rhône has recently been turned from an ugly car park into a 5-km promenade with various landscapes and great views over the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. The place had immediate success among locals. A bicycle is perfect to enjoy it, except on sunny weekends, when it is too crowded to ride safely.
Vieux lyon
Auditorium
The Lyon National Orchestra plays in this impressive, modern concert hall which also hosts some jazz and world music concerts.
Musée d'Art contemporain
Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular.
Place des Jacobins
The state of this square is typical of the "automobile-friendly" urban planning of the 1960s: it is covered with tarmac, too much so given the reasonable traffic around it. A renovation project is under way, which should give the square a greener aspect. The main interest is the central fountain 1885 by architect Gaspard André and sculptor Degeorges. The four statues portray Lyon-born artists: painter Hippolyte Flandrin 1809-1864, engraver Gérard Audran 1640-1703, sculptor Guillaume Coustou 1677-1746 and architect Philibert Delorme 1510-1570.
La Cave des Voyageurs
Opened over 20 years ago by "Jeannot", the picturesque and loud-mouthed owner of the other bar next door, this small and friendly wine bar has built a wide and interesting selection of several hundred wines over the years. Of course the locals are well represented Beaujolais, Burgundy, Rhône valley but the list also keeps expanding geographically. Also serves some quality food: ham, sausages, cheese.
Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon
Belongs to YHA international youth hostels association. Bunk bed in a dorm, plus breakfast for â¬21 plus fee, if not member of YHA. Take the metro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes otherwise a serious hike up a steep hill. Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families. Keeps with the Catholic 1900s tradition of no gender-mixed rooms. No telephone bookings.
Hôtel de Ville
The city hall, built in the 17th century, has a very beautiful facade on Place des Terreaux. The most notable feature of this facade is the sculpture representing King Henri IV on horseback in the middle of the upper part. Unfortunately, it is impossible to visit the building except during the "Heritage days" Journées du patrimoine in mid-September.
Rue Auguste Comte
Parallel to rue Victor Hugo, this is where you will find most antique shops in Lyon.
Parc de Gerland
The Rhône banks promenade ends here. This recent park does not have the majesty of Parc de la Tête d'Or but it is far less crowded and boasts some nice examples of modern landscaping. Still under development, it should cover 80 hectares when completed.
Hotel Saint Paul
Very conveniently located in Vieux Lyon, this 2-star hotel offers rather small rooms but very good service and cleanliness. Good value for money. The street can be quite noisy, so ask for a room on the courtyard side or bring your earplugs.
Théâtre Tête d'Or
This is the only theatre in Lyon showing popular comedies in the Parisian "boulevard" style.
Traboules
The traboules are a typical architectural feature of Lyon's historical buildings. They are corridors which link two streets through a building, and usually a courtyard. Many traboules are unique architectural masterpieces, largely influenced by Italy and especially Florence.Some of them are officially open to the public. They link the following addresses:- 54 rue St Jean <> 27 rue du Boeuf the longest in Lyon- 27 rue St Jean <> 6 rue des Trois Maries- 2 place du Gouvernement <> quai Romain Rolland.To open the doors, just press the service button next to the door code keyboard. If you are unable to enter from one side, try the opposite entrance. In the morning, many other doors are open for service mail, garbage collecting, so more traboules are accessible. There are traboules in almost all buildings between Quai Romain Rolland and Rue St Jean/Rue des Trois Maries, and others between Rue St Jean and Rue du Boeuf.The buildings are inhabited. As everybody, people who live there like to sleep on Sunday mornings, or may work at night, or simply prefer not being disturbed, so please be as quiet as possible, regardless of whether you are in an 'officially open' or in a 'normally closed' traboule. It is best to whisper when talking because the small courtyards amplify the sound of voices, and even normal conversation can be quite disturbing for the inhabitants.
Rue de la République
This pedestrian street is the main downtown shopping spot. Also check out Rue du Président Edouard Herriot more expensive in general and Rue de Brest; these three streets run parallel to each other along Presqu'île.
Opera house
The old opera house was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel in the 1990s and hosts opera and dancing shows, along with a few other concerts especially jazz in the smaller "Amphithéâtre" room.
Institut Lumière
The museum also has a theatre showing thematic series of cinema masterpieces in original version. The theatre is in the former Lumière factory, which was the scenery of the first movie in history La sortie des usines Lumière.
Rue Victor Hugo
Brand names and tourist traps south of Bellecour.
Rue Juiverie
Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. It is named after the Jewish community who originally settled there but were expelled in the 14th century. Check out the back courtyard at Hôtel Builloud number 8; it has a magnificent gallery on the first floor, designed by Philibert Delorme who was one of the most prominent local architects during the Renaissance.
Musée de la Miniature et des Décors de cinéma
Created by artist Dan Ohlmann, this private gallery shows about 120 miniature models of all kinds of scenes: houses, restaurants, workshops, schools, etc., from Lyon or elsewhere, historical or contemporary. The accuracy of the models is astonishing and some sections will be real fun for children. Movie sceneries are also presented. The gallery is in a large 16th-century building called Maison des Avocats Lawyers' house.
Jardin des Curiosités
Small garden hidden in the bottom of a street/car park, behind a metallic door. It was designed by Canadian artists in a surrealistic spirit recalls Magritte or Dali. Also a very nice viewpoint over the southern part of Lyon.
L'Ouest
A brasserie owned by Paul Bocuse, near the river Saône. The specialities are fish and cuisine of the Caribbean.
Montée du Gourguillon
This picturesque montée sloping street on hillside starts behind Vieux Lyon metro station and ends quite close to the Roman theatres of Fourvière. It was the main link between the river Saône and the top of Fourvière throughout the Roman era, Middle Ages and Renaissance. Nowadays it keeps a medieval spirit. Around numbers 5-7 is Impasse Turquet, a small cul-de-sac named after Etienne Turquet, an Italian who is said to have founded the silk industry in Lyon in 1536. In this small passageway are the oldest houses of the city, dating back to the 13th or 14th century, with wooden balconies.
Montée de la Grande Côte
This steep street has Renaissance buildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top.
Théâtre des Célestins
The historical theatre, in a beautiful 19th century building by Gaspard André, recently refurbished. Serious programme.
Théâtre de la Croix-Rousse
'The other' theatre, with a more avant-garde programme.
Mur des Canuts
This painted wall is dedicated to the history and typical architecture of the Croix-Rousse hill.
Théâtre des Célestins
Designed by Gaspard André and opened in 1877, the building has a beautiful Italian-style facade. In the middle of the quiet plaza outside the theatre stands a strange periscope in which you can see rotating geometric shapes, like a kaleidoscope. Those were actually painted in the car park beneath the plaza by the famous artist Daniel Buren and they are reflected by a rotating mirror. To enter the car park and see the other side, take the stairway on your right when looking at the theatre.
Ile Barbe
This charming island on the river Saône is the only inhabited island in Lyon. In the 5th century, one of the first monasteries in Gaul was founded there. It became a powerful Benedictine abbey from the 9th century but was finally ruined in 1526 by Protestants, during the religious wars. Of the three churches that existed on the island, only the Romanesque Notre-Dame remains. The island also has other old buildings in a quiet and green environment. The suspension bridge was built in 1827.
Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation
Located in the former Gestapo regional headquarters, this museum depicts the daily life in Lyon under the German occupation and keeps memories of this tragic period. Often holds exhibitions mostly photography.
Parc de la Tête d'Or
Completed in 1862, this 105-hectare English-style garden is one of the largest and arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for families as well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the botanical garden, the rose garden and the recently added "African plain" in which animals wander in a natural-style environment, perfect for children.
La Part-Dieu
A huge shopping mall the largest downtown mall in Europe on four levels, with most major fashion brands. Avoid Saturday afternoons, the place is awfully crowded.
Carré de Soie
New shopping mall opened April 2009 with fashion stores, restaurants and a cinema multiplex, in a developing suburban area.
Place Sathonay
A charming neighbourhood square planted with old plane trees. Just sit at a terrace, watch the locals playing pétanque and enjoy the mood.
Ninkasi
This is a modern-day institution in Lyon. Ninkasi has two places for live music: Kafé free shows, essentially electronic music and Kao a concert hall dedicated to rock and electronic music. It is also a beer brewery and has bars all over the Presqu'île, and also in Villeurbanne.
TNP
Jean Vilar's spirit of 'popular theatre' lives on in the historically left-wing Villeurbanne.
Place du Change
The largest square in the area has two remarkable buildings. The Loge du Change, on the west side, was partially built by the great architect Soufflot. It is now a Protestant church known as Temple du Change. It can be visited on Saturdays. Religious services on Sundays, 10:30AM. Opposite is the Maison Thomassin, with its Gothic-style 14th-century facade. The Thomassins were a powerful merchant family in the Renaissance. Above the 2nd floor windows are the arms of the King of France, of the Dauphin heir of the Kingdom and of Duchess Anne of Brittany. Unfortunately, the courtyard is closed to the public.
St Paul church
A very nice church, with mixed Romanesque and Gothic styles. The oldest parts are from the 10th century.
Mur des Lyonnais
This impressive painted wall portraits some of the most famous people who were born in Lyon, from Renaissance poet Louise Labé to the Lumière brothers, the inventors of cinema, to chef Paul Bocuse.
Musée de l'Imprimerie
Visit it only if you're a printing specialist, the collection is important, but it is presented in a totally outdated way.
CNP
Two independent cinemas; the Bellecour branch has the most avant-garde programme. All foreign movies in original version.
Le Resto
Very nice little restaurant with great Lyon food and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well.
Renaissance courtyards
Besides the buildings cited above, some have very beautiful courtyards but no real traboules that is to say, no crossing from one street to another. The most outstanding are: Maison du Chamarier 37 rue St Jean and Maison du Crible 16 rue du Boeuf, in which stands the famous "Pink Tower".
Jardin Rosa Mir
This amazing garden was built by a Spanish refugee, Jules Senis, and dedicated to his mother. Senis had cancer and had made the vow of building this garden if he ever came out of the hospital; fortunately, he did. The garden is a fine mixture of mineral and vegetal elements, in a style influenced by Gaudi's works in Barcelona.
Comoedia
After a few years of closure followed by refurbishment works, this independent cinema is now very comfortable and has a relatively avant-garde programme. All foreign movies are shown in original version.
Pathé
This major national firm has four theatres in Lyon Cordeliers, Bellecour, Vaise, Carré de Soie offering essentially American blockbusters and mainstream French movies. The Bellecour branch has foreign films in original version.
Le Bec de Jazz
Nice jazz club, with live jazz and a great atmosphere.
Place des Terreaux
This large square was completely redesigned in the 1990s by the artist Daniel Buren. On the East side stands the City Hall. On the North side, you will find the fountain sculpted by Bartholdi, the 'father' of the Statue of Liberty; this fountain was moved from the West side when the square was renovated. It now faces Palais St Pierre, which hosts the Museum of Fine Arts.
Place Bellecour
The largest clear square in Europe. In the center stands the equestrian statue of Louis XIV "under the horse's tail" is a usual meeting point for locals. Apart from this, it is rather empty, windy and not so pleasant. A renovation project is under way. Between the southeast corner of Place Bellecour and the river Rhône is Place Antonin Poncet. There was a hospital there Hôpital de la Charité, built in 1622 and demolished in 1934. The only remain is the bell tower Clocher de la Charité built in 1667.
Transbordeur
The medium-sized hall capacity 1,500 for rock or popular music concerts.
Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules
This Roman theatre is the place where the first Christian martyrs of Gaul were killed. Documents say that it was the largest theatre in Gaul at that time, but nobody knows exactly how far it extends under the neighbouring buildings, nor what remains from the Roman era after centuries of construction. After the recent closing of the old Fine Arts school the grey building overlooking the theatre, a debate was initiated about what should be done with this exceptional archaeological site. The theatre can be seen from the street but is not open to the public for safety reasons.
Musée urbain Tony Garnier
This museum was created during the renovation of the Etats-Unis neighbourhood in the 1980s and 1990s, and the inhabitants were strongly involved in the project. The museum comprises a recreated apartment of the 1930s, which shows how life was like in these very modern housing units, and the 25 wall paintings depicting Garnier's work and ideals. You can also see the walls on your own but you will miss the interesting comments on the history of the area and the social project behind it.
Parc des Hauteurs
Located between the metal tower of Fourvière and the Loyasse cemetery, this is rather a promenade with a nice footbridge offering great views towards the Monts d'Or and Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventure course and a skiing and moutain bike slope.
Le Phoebus
Pub with nice live music African, reggae.
Palais de Justice
The historical court house, also named "the 24 columns", was built between 1835 and 1842 by architect Louis-Pierre Baltard. It is a fine example of French "neo-classical" architecture. It now hosts only the criminal court Cour d'Assises and the court of appeal. The other jurisdictions moved to a new building in Part-Dieu in 1995. The most famous trial held there was that of the former head of the Lyon Gestapo, Klaus Barbie, in 1987. The building is currently undergoing major refurbishment works.
Le Layon
In another street full of tourist traps, this restaurant offers very good, classical local and French cuisine. Try the grenouilles frogs. Very nice terrace. Good wine list at interesting prices.
Les Adrets
Very good classic French cuisine, made from quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area.
Marquise
(http://www.marquise.net), quai augagneur. here you get nice alternative hip-hop, retro soul, etc. sometimes theatre performances.
Opera house
Opposite the City Hall stands the opera house. The 1826 theatre built by Chenavard and Pollet was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel who kept only the façades and the foyer on the first floor. The building was reopened in 1993. The history of these works was epic: a lot of technical problems occurred and the final cost of the project was six times the initial estimate. Today, the glass top has become a classical landmark of the city but the interior design is criticised, for both aesthetic and functional reasons.
Maison de la Danse
A theatre dedicated to modern dancing. Also a fine example of architecture of the 1960s.
Olympique Lyonnais
The local football soccer team have been national champions from 2002 through 2008. Their ladies' team also dominates the championship. They play at Gerland stadium, built by Tony Garnier in the 1930s and renovated for the 1998 World Cup. Tickets are not too difficult to get, except for major European matches.
Boulangerie du Palais
In this small bakery, you will find good praline tarts, a popular local dessert.
Basilique St Martin d'Ainay
The only entirely Romanesque church in Lyon, dating back to the 11th-12th centuries. The abbey of Ainay was one of the most powerful in France between the 13th and the 16th centuries. A must-see for its very nice atmosphere.
Musée des Arts Décoratifs / Musée des Tissus
Perouges is a small village 30 min outside of Lyon. Its buildings all date to the middle ages and it's a popular weekend destination for people who live in Lyon.
LOU Rugby
The rugby team of Lyon plays in the top flight for the first time this season 2011-2012. The season of 2012-2013 they are playing in the second devision known as Pro D2.
Rue du Président Edouard Herriot, rue Gasparin, rue Emile Zola, rue des Archers
In the "golden square" between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins, you will find a number of famous luxury brands.
rognons de veau à la moutarde
Veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. delicious and textural experience.
Bouchon Chez Paul
A very good bouchon serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly.
Les Enfants Gâtés
Very good ice cream, on a lovely neighbourhood square. Also a good Sunday brunch.
St Jean archaeological garden
Next to St Jean cathedral on the northern side, this small garden shows the remains of the religious buildings which occupied the site before the cathedral was erected. The oldest remains date back to the 4th century baptistery of the former St Etienne church.
salade lyonnaise
lyon salad: green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;
El Loco Latino
32, rue pasteur, next to the guillotiã¨re metro station. a small, but lively latin bar, open daily until 1am.
Le Perroquet Bourré
the drunk parrot, 18 rue saint catherine. cheap rum, the inside is decorated as a pirate ship.
Institut Lumière - Musée vivant du Cinéma
Located in the Lumière brothers' house, this museum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worth seeing for the lovely architecture.
Musées Gadagne: Historical museum of Lyon and International puppet museum
After 10 years of major refurbishment works, these museums dedicated to the history of the city and to puppets like the famous Guignol from Lyon were reopened in June 2009, with great public and critical success. The building itself, a magnificent Renaissance palace, is worth a visit. A nice garden and cafe have also been created at the top of the building free access.
Hotel Les Carres Pegase
31 rue chevreul, +33 4 72 72 08 36. totally worn down business appart-hotel, in serious need of modernisation - but apart from that with clean sheets and friendly service. small duplex for four people as low as â¬60 through hostelbookers. but be aware that you get what you pay for. the views for 7th floor is good.
Cité Internationale
This business and residential area is the most important urban project Lyon has seen in recent years. Designed by the famous Italian architect Renzo Piano also known for Beaubourg modern art centre in Paris and part of the Potsdamer Platz area in Berlin, it comprises a convention centre, hotels and luxury apartments just between the Rhône and Parc de la Tête d'Or.
Collège Hôtel
Conveniently located in the Vieux Lyon area, this 3-star hotel is decorated in the manner of an early 20th century school.
Jogg'in City
Sightjogging Lyon, run and visit Lyon. Jogg'in City a fun way to discover the city. (http://www.joggincity.fr)
St Bruno church
The only Baroque church in Lyon. The interior is magnificent, especially the altar by Servandoni, modified by Soufflot, 18th century and the canopy by Servandoni.
Chez Mounier
Chez Mounier â A traditional bouchon restaurant with good food for a very reasonable price a complete menu for â¬10. Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.
Le Bistrot de St-Paul
This restaurant serves mostly specialities from southwestern France duck, foie gras, cassoulet....
Cour des Loges
Located in an exceptional 14th-century building in the heart of the old town.
ASVEL
The Villeurbanne basketball team has a long history as one of the major clubs in the country.
Albion
Beer, whiskey and rock. "The best pub quiz in Lyon" - Special Music Quiz once a month.
Wallace
Comfortable beer and whisky bar with a nice terrace, live sports, pub quiz on Thursdays.
UGC
The other major cinema firm, has three theatres in Lyon Part-Dieu, Cité Internationale, Astoria. The Astoria M: Masséna has foreign movies in original version.
cervelle de canut
cervelle' = ' brain: fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.
Hotel Vaubecour
A very simple, but clean and friendly hotel with large rooms and two beds, TV, and washstand. Near Perrache train station and close to just about everything.
Hotel Victoria
This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable value accommodation in a handy location with a friendly welcome.
Rue St Jean
This cobblestone pedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full of souvenir shops and restaurants mainly intended for tourists. Local people are aware that real good bouchons are extremely rare here. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, it may be hard to walk because of the crowd of both locals and tourists. You can also check out the more quiet rue des Trois Maries which runs parallel to rue St Jean, between place de la Baleine and rue du Palais de Justice.
Rue du Boeuf
Parallel to Rue St Jean, this street is much more quiet and just as beautiful. It also has a number of restaurants, more expensive than in rue St Jean but, on average, much more worth the money.
L'Amsterdam
21 quai romain rolland, nice dutch pub.
Le Petit Tramassac
If your plan to stay in Lyon for leisure or work, for 1 night or more, Le Petit Tramassac offers you to live in a comfortable and fully equiped apartement of 44 sqm in the heart of the Old Lyon.
Panoramic viewpoint
Next to the basilica is the panoramic viewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, Mont Blanc can be seen in the distance. This is a very good point to start your visit of the city because you can really see its general layout.
Antic Wine
This tiny shop has an exceptional selection of wines from all over the world. Very interesting selection of Rhône valley wines, amazing collection of old Burgundies. Very reasonable prices. Also a must-see for port amateurs, with the largest selection in France and prices ranging from â¬12 to â¬3,000.
Rue Mercière
This cobblestone pedestrian street is the only significant remain from the Renaissance in Presqu'île. The name of the street refers to the clothing industry. There are traboules connecting the street to the buildings on the Saône bank. The street hosts very numerous restaurants which are far from being all good.
Hôtel-Dieu
The majestic Hôtel-Dieu was the oldest hospital in Lyon and is one of the largest buildings in Presqu'île. The facade along the river Rhône is over 300 m 984 ft long. The first hospital was built in 1184-1185; it was modified several times before Soufflot designed the current building, built from 1741 to 1761. The large dome was completed in 1765. The newly built Grange Blanche hospital today Edouard Herriot became the main medical centre in the city in the 1930s. Hôtel-Dieu doctors were pioneers in numerous specialities, including radiology Etienne Destot, oncology Léon Bérard, surgery Joseph Gensoul, Matthieu Jaboulay and orthopedics Louis Léopold Ollier; they contributed in making Lyon the second medical centre in the country after Paris. The building no longer fits the needs of modern medicine, therefore the hospital has been closed down in 2010. Its future is not completely clear; it should be at least partially converted into a luxury hotel and shopping mall. Hôtel-Dieu hosts the Lyon hospitals museum Musée des Hospices civils de Lyon.
St Nizier church
Very nice church of flaming Gothic style.
Théâtre le Guignol de Lyon
The largest Guignol theatre, showing original creations for children and adults.
Véritable Guignol du Vieux Lyon et du Parc
Especially intended for children, this outdoor theatre is conveniently located within the park, near the lake and the zoo.
Le Resto d'Alice
Small bouchon with cute rustic interior and patio located on nice green plaza. The Andouillette and gratin dauphinois are particularly good. Service is very friendly. Also surrounded by other interesting looking eating options and convenient velo'v station on plaza.
Bahadourian
A large Oriental shop, with all kinds of exotic foods, especially North African. In the heart of the picturesque Guillotière neighbourhood.
Chez Jules
Many bakeries offer good quality sandwiches, made with fresh baguette of course. Try, for example, Chez Jules, 7 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon B: C3-Gare St Paul, or Kayser, Place Louis Pradel, 69001 Lyon M: Hôtel de Ville.
Boat trips on the Saône
A boat trip can be a good way to see Lyon from a different point of view. Boats will take you either upstream to Ile Barbe or downstream to the Confluence. Night trips available on Fridays and Saturdays.
Espace Le Bec
Before boarding your return flight, you can treat yourself with a last fine meal in Lyon. This place was opened by Nicolas Le Bec, who once ran the most trendy gastronomic restaurant in the city and offers quality bistronomic cuisine.
Nardone
Delicious ice cream with very original flavours, served on a very pleasant terrace. Completely overcrowded on sunny weekends, be prepared to queue... but it is worth the wait if you are a real ice cream fan.
Johnny Walsh's
Nice, authentic Irish pub with good music and some live performances.
Main Post Office
The car museum of Rochetaillée
Has a very nice collection of modern and old cars. the main attraction of the museum is adolf hitler's armored car. chã¢teau rochetaillã©e, 69270 rochetaillã©e-sur-saã´ne, â +33 4 78 22 18 80, fax +33 4 78 22 69 60. open 9am-7pm daily except monday in july and august, 9am-6pm the rest of the year. closed on christmas and new year. fees: adults â¬5, free for children under 18.
St Jean Cathedral
Officially, the cathedral is dedicated to both St John the Baptist St Jean-Baptiste and St Stephen St Etienne and has the title of primatiale because the Bishop of Lyon has the honorary title of Primat des Gaules. Built between 1180 and 1480, it is mostly of Gothic style with Romanesque elements; the oldest parts are the chancel and the lateral chapels, and as one goes towards the facade, the style becomes more and more Gothic. The cathedral hosts a spectacular astronomical clock originally built in the 14th century but modified later. It is especially worth seeing when the bells ring, daily on the hour from noon-4PM. Over the main door, the rose window, known as the "Lamb rose window", is an admirable work of art depicting the life of St Stephen and St John the Baptist.
Etats-Unis neighbourhood
This neighbourhood was built by the famous local architect Tony Garnier in the 1920s to house industry workers. Along with Edouard Herriot hospital, it is one of the masterpieces of this visionary architect. The main axis of the neighbourhood, boulevard des Etats-Unis, was named to honour the U.S, which had just entered World War I when the street was opened in 1917. 25 wall paintings made in the 1980s and 1990s show examples of Garnier's work and his "ideal city projects"; see also "Musée urbain Tony Garnier" in the museums section.
Metal tower
Next to the basilica stands a smaller 86 m, 282 ft replica of the Eiffel Tower, completed in 1894. Its construction was supported by anticlerical people in order to have a non-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which it actually is with an altitude of 372 m 1272 ft at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public.
Croix-Rousse traboules
Look for the lanterns over the doors and the specific signs.
Rhône banks
The right bank of the river Rhône has recently been turned from an ugly car park into a 5-km promenade with various landscapes and great views over the Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. The place had immediate success among locals. A bicycle is perfect to enjoy it, except on sunny weekends, when it is too crowded to ride safely.
Musée des Hospices civils de Lyon
This museum recreates the rich history of medicine in Lyon; it also exhibits art works donated to the hospitals by their benefactors paintings, sculptures, pieces of furniture. A number of items come from the former Hôpital de la Charité, demolished in 1934.
tablier de sapeur
Marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitate before trying it;
Complexe du Rire
Two rooms and talented young comedians.
quenelle de brochet
Dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce nantua sauce;
La Mâchonnerie
Traditional local cuisine, but the place is more comfortable than a bouchon. Delicious, genuine, home-made dishes served in very large quantities, and a very good wine list favouring the locals - a very good place to taste the real Beaujolais. Upon reservation, the restaurant can accommodate quite large groups.
St Irénée church
The oldest church in Lyon, and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis which was in use for centuries, until the Middle Ages. Some sarcophagi from the 5th or 6th century are visible in the courtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. Early Christian remains from the 4th-6th centuries are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century remains. Behind the church, the calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint.
Kelly's Irish Pub
Irish pub, live music on saturday, irish music sessions on thursday, quiz every monday, pool, darts, irish and english pub food, air conditioning
gratin dauphinois
The traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream;
Musée gallo-romain de Fourvière
The second largest museum in France, it has all kinds of things relating to Rhone-Alps history. A free visit to the Roman theatres may be just as interesting for those not into the details.
kebab shops
Otherwise, kebab shops abound, most with the same price: â¬4.50 for a kebab, â¬5 for a kebab with frites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux M: Hôtel de Ville.
Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse
Formerly located on Place des Cordeliers, the Halles moved to the Part-Dieu area in 1971. If you want the very best food, this is the place to go. It has a price however.
Chez Jules
A fantastically authentic bakery. Try the tarte aux fraises and the mini quiches. Perfect for breakfast, a snack or an early lunch.
The Smoking Dog
English pub. Pub quiz on Tuesdays. Air conditioning.
After Venice, the Old Lyon, a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saône, is the largest Renaissance area in Europe well, it's actually far behind Venice. Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallel to the river, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were erected between the 15th and the 17th centuries, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon where four fairs were held each year. At that time, the buildings of Lyon were said to be the highest in Europe. The area was entirely refurbished in the 1980s and 1990s. It now offers the visitor colorful, narrow cobblestone streets; there are some interesting craftmen's shops but also many tourist traps.
It is divided into three parts which are named after their respective churches:
St Paul
north of place du Change, was the commercial area during the Renaissance;St Jean
between place du Change and St Jean cathedral, was home to most wealthy families: aristocrats, public officers, etc;St Georges
south of St Jean, was a craftsmen's district.The area is generally crowded in the afternoon, especially at weekends. To really enjoy its architectural beauties, the best time is therefore the morning. Around lunchtime, the streets somewhat disappear behind restaurant terraces, postcard racks and the crowd of tourists.
Guided tours in several languages, including English, are available from the tourist office â¬9, (http://www.en.lyon-france.com/page/p-1074/art_id-/).
L'Art et la Manière
Small no-tourist restaurant in a no-tourist area. Friendly yet professional service, short menu but very creative, high-quality cooking. Good although short wine list. The best bottles are at amazingly low prices given their "constant mark-up" policy.
L'Auberge de l'Ile
One of the best places in Lyon, in a 17th century building on a lovely island on the Saône.
Pain et Cie
This place is quite popular for its Sunday brunch.
St Antoine market
The other major market, in a wealthier part of town. Also some local fruit and vegetable producers. Eating oysters by the Saône is a very pleasant occupation before Sunday lunch.
Vercoquin
This wine store is specialised in organic and "natural" wines. It is also a wine bar, all bottles of the shop can be drunk there with a price supplement of â¬6.
Terreaux Post Office
L'Abreuvoir
There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitely an experience, though not everyone's cup of tea.
Q-Boat
21 quai augagneur. another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.
Vienne and its international jazz festival.
The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over 2 hr away by train.
Annecy, the "Venice of Savoie" with its beautiful lake and canals, is about 2 hr away and makes a nice daytrip.
Le-Puy-en-Velay, one of the four starting points for pilgrimages to Santiago.
Saint-Etienne, a large industrial hub.
St James's Pub
Irish pub.
Brasserie Georges
An exceptional traditional Brasserie, serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in 1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior is worth a look even if you don't want to eat.
Têtedoie
A new address for a well-recognized chef. The previous restaurant had a classic dining room on the banks of the Saône. Têtedoie is now taking his restaurant to the next level with a prestigious location offering one of the best views in town and a very contemporary decor, with the same culinary spirit and prices. The wine list is so big they have to carry it around on a trolley. The place also features a wine bar, a "bistro-style" terrace â¬40/50 and an Italian restaurant.
Paul Bocuse
The master of all chefs. Taste the legend of "Monsieur Paul", who is over 80 years old and still runs this palace restaurant... and many others.
Croix-Rousse market
Very popular and typical market mith many local producers. On Tuesdays, also sells non-food items. Very crowded on sunny Sundays, but this is the right time to enjoy the particular mood of the neighbourhood.
Vercoquin
See "Buy".
LaTour-Lyon
An accommodation in a renaissance tower in Vieux-Lyon. A delightful duplex and unique setting with a panoramic view through 17 windows and luxurious amenities.
St Georges neighbourhood
St Georges is the name given to the south part of the Vieux Lyon. It has nice Renaissance buildings which, however, do not really compare to the palaces of St Jean; on the other hand, it is much more quiet than the St Jean area.
saucisson chaud
A hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine saucisson beaujolais or in a bun saucisson briochã©;
Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts
La Mère Brazier â Mathieu Viannay
The restaurant opened in 1921 by the legendary Eugénie Brazier was recently taken over by the talented young chef Mathieu Viannay and awarded 2 stars by the Michelin guide only a few months after its opening. Revisited all-time classics Bresse poultry with truffles, artichokes with foie gras.
Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour
20, quai gailleton 2nd arrondissement, â +33 4 72 41 20 20, (http://www.accorhotels.co...). luxury hotel close to the famous place bellecour. large number of meeting rooms for conventions.
andouillette
Sausage made with chopped tripes, usually served with a mustard sauce;
El Loco Latino
15 min across the rhone from hotel de ville. latino bar with low budget food. the day menu is â¬7.50 and the empanada is â¬4.
Chez Martial
Tiny bouchon, maybe the only acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps.
Croix-rousse
Jardin Rosa Mir
This amazing garden was built by a Spanish refugee, Jules Senis, and dedicated to his mother. Senis had cancer and had made the vow of building this garden if he ever came out of the hospital; fortunately, he did. The garden is a fine mixture of mineral and vegetal elements, in a style influenced by Gaudi's works in Barcelona.
Montée de la Grande Côte
This steep street has Renaissance buildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top.
Mur des Canuts
This painted wall is dedicated to the history and typical architecture of the Croix-Rousse hill.
Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules
This Roman theatre is the place where the first Christian martyrs of Gaul were killed. Documents say that it was the largest theatre in Gaul at that time, but nobody knows exactly how far it extends under the neighbouring buildings, nor what remains from the Roman era after centuries of construction. After the recent closing of the old Fine Arts school the grey building overlooking the theatre, a debate was initiated about what should be done with this exceptional archaeological site. The theatre can be seen from the street but is not open to the public for safety reasons.
The area, especially the traboules, may be worth taking a guided tour available from the tourist office.
Croix-Rousse is known as the "working hill" but for centuries, it had been as much of a "praying hill" as Fourvière. On the slopes was the Roman Federal Sanctuary of the Three Gauls, which comprised the amphitheatre built in 19 and an altar built in 12 BC. This sanctuary was abandoned at the end of the 2nd century. In the Middle Ages, the hill, then called Montagne St Sébastien, was not part of the free town of Lyon but of the Franc-Lyonnais province, which was independent and protected by the King. The slopes were then dedicated to agriculture, mostly vineyards. In 1512, a fortified wall was built at the top of the hill, approximately where Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is today. The pentes slopes and the plateau were therefore separated. The slopes became then part of Lyon while the plateau was outside the borders of the city. Up to thirteen religious congregations then settled on the slopes and acquired vast pieces of land. Their possessions were seized and many buildings destroyed during the French Revolution.
Croix-Rousse is known as the main silk production area, but the industry did not exist on the hill until the early 19th century and the introduction of new weaving technology; at that time, silk had already been produced in Lyon for over 250 years. The industry gave birth to a unique architecture: the canuts' apartments had very high ceilings to accommodate the newly introduced Jacquard looms, which were up to 4 metres high; tall windows gave the necessary natural lighting for the delicate work; and mezzanines provided space for family life. The neighbourhood is still one of the most densely populated in Europe. The first revolt of the canuts in 1831 is regarded as one of the first social conflicts of the industrial era. It gave the hill its reputation of a "rebel" neighbourhood. In 1852, the commune town of Croix-Rousse, actually the plateau, was made a district of Lyon. Local people still talk about "going to Lyon" when they go down to the city centre. Then important works were undertaken, such as the construction of the first funicular in the world, linking the plateau to central Lyon it started in Rue Terme; the tunnel is now a road tunnel, or the creation of the Croix-Rousse hospital.
Nowadays the plateau keeps a "village" mood, the slopes still have a "rebel" spirit, with many artists and associations based there, but the sociology of the neighbourhood has considerably evolved with the renovation works and the subsequent rise in real estate prices and massive arrival of upper-middle-class families bobos. Local authorities, however, are committed to preserving social diversity.
The name "Croix-Rousse" comes from a limestone cross which was erected at the top of the hill in the beginning of the 16th century. It was then destroyed and rebuilt several times. A replica installed in 1994 can be seen on Place Joannès Ambre between the hospital and Croix-Rousse theatre.
St Bruno church
The only Baroque church in Lyon. The interior is magnificent, especially the altar by Servandoni, modified by Soufflot, 18th century and the canopy by Servandoni.
Presqu'ã®le
Place Sathonay
A charming neighbourhood square planted with old plane trees. Just sit at a terrace, watch the locals playing pétanque and enjoy the mood.
For the people of Lyon, Presqu'île is the place to go for shopping, dining or clubbing. It also represents a large part of the city's economic activity.
This narrow peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers was largely shaped by man. When the first inhabitants settled on what was then called Canabae, the junction of the river was located near the current site of St Martin d'Ainay basilica. South of this point was an island. From 1772, titanic works led by engineer Antoine-Michel Perrache reunited the island to the mainland. The swamps which existed there were then dried out, which allowed the construction of Perrache station, opened in 1846. Northern Presqu'île was largely redesigned from 1848; the only remaining Renaissance part is around rue Mercière.
Most of the action on Presqu'île actually takes place between Terreaux and Bellecour. Between Bellecour and Perrache, the neighbourhood of Ainay is traditionally home to the Catholic bourgeoisie. Perrache station and its "exchange centre" freeway interchange, car parks, metro and bus station are a very important border; going from one side to the other is a challenge, be it on foot or by car. The area south of Perrache is dealt with in the next section.
Other areas
Ile Barbe
This charming island on the river Saône is the only inhabited island in Lyon. In the 5th century, one of the first monasteries in Gaul was founded there. It became a powerful Benedictine abbey from the 9th century but was finally ruined in 1526 by Protestants, during the religious wars. Of the three churches that existed on the island, only the Romanesque Notre-Dame remains. The island also has other old buildings in a quiet and green environment. The suspension bridge was built in 1827.
Cité Internationale
This business and residential area is the most important urban project Lyon has seen in recent years. Designed by the famous Italian architect Renzo Piano also known for Beaubourg modern art centre in Paris and part of the Potsdamer Platz area in Berlin, it comprises a convention centre, hotels and luxury apartments just between the Rhône and Parc de la Tête d'Or.
Etats-Unis neighbourhood
This neighbourhood was built by the famous local architect Tony Garnier in the 1920s to house industry workers. Along with Edouard Herriot hospital, it is one of the masterpieces of this visionary architect. The main axis of the neighbourhood, boulevard des Etats-Unis, was named to honour the U.S, which had just entered World War I when the street was opened in 1917. 25 wall paintings made in the 1980s and 1990s show examples of Garnier's work and his "ideal city projects"; see also "Musée urbain Tony Garnier" in the museums section.
Lyon may not have world-famous monuments such as the Eiffel tower or the Statue of Liberty, but it offers very diverse neighbourhoods which are interesting to walk around and hide architectural marvels. As time goes by, the city also becomes more and more welcoming for pedestrians and cyclists. So a good way to explore it may be to get lost somewhere and enjoy what comes up, and not to always follow the guide...
Local specialities you cannot eat
lighting of buildings
The Lyon II university building illuminated at night.
painted walls
A good point for visitors is that most attractions will not cost you a cent: churches, traboules, parks, etc. For those intending to visit several museums which are almost the only attractions you cannot see for free, the Lyon City Card may be of interest. Available from the Tourist office, it costs â¬21 for one day, â¬31 for 2 days and â¬41 for 3 days. It includes unlimited rides on the public transport network, free or reduced entry fee to major museums and exhibitions and one guided tour per day per person Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, etc.. The price is still a bit high, so count before you buy to see if this is a good deal considering your plans.
Do not hesitate to buy a detailed map with a street index from a book shop or a newsagent; many places of interest or good restaurants are located in small streets you will not find on simplified maps, such as the ones you can get from the Tourist office.
Whatever the time of year except for the Fête des Lumières, tourists are not very numerous yet, but they concentrate in a few small areas, especially Fourvière and Vieux Lyon, where the pedestrian streets are just as crowded as the Champs-Elysees sidewalks on sunny weekends.
highlights
The classics:
The view from Fourvière basilica, and the basilica itself.
Streets and traboules in Vieux Lyon, St Jean cathedral.
Traboules in Croix-Rousse.
Musées Gadagne.
Parc de la Tête d'Or.
Off the beaten path:
Musée urbain Tony Garnier and Etats-Unis neighbourhood.
St Irénée church, Montée du Gourguillon, St Georges neighbourhood.
A drink on Place Sathonay.
St Bruno church.
Parc de Gerland.
Gratte-ciel neighbourhood in Villeurbanne.